If you’ve ever watched Fiddler on the Roof, you’re familiar with the world of Tevye—a humble dairyman struggling to maintain his faith, traditions, and family within the close-knit Jewish community of Anatevka. That world, defined by deep communal ties and an unshakable commitment to religious traditions, was once a common sight across Eastern and Central Europe. These Jewish villages, known as shtetls, thrived for centuries, shaping Jewish identity in the Pale of Settlement, a vast region encompassing parts of modern-day Poland, Ukraine, Belarus, and Russia.
But the shtetl way of life did not survive the 20th century. The horrors of World War II and the Holocaust, followed by Soviet suppression, wiped out most Jewish settlements. Survivors either assimilated into urban societies or immigrated to Israel, the United States, and beyond. The traditions, customs, and languages of the shtetl faded into history—except in one extraordinary place.
Hidden in the Caucasus Mountains of Azerbaijan, a single shtetl still endures, defying time and geopolitics. Welcome to Qırmızı Qəsəbə, also known as Krasnaya Sloboda or simply Krasny, the last remaining all-Jewish village in the world.
A Hidden Enclave in the Caucasus
At first glance, Qırmızı Qəsəbə (Krasnaya Sloboda) appears like any other small, struggling village in the region. Located about 180 kilometers north of Baku, near the Russian border, it sits along the Kudyal River, facing the larger town of Quba. Its population, which once reached 18,000 in the early 1990s, has since dwindled to around 3,500—and in the winter, when many residents migrate temporarily to Moscow or Israel, the village can shrink to just 500 people.
The village’s origins trace back to the 18th century, when it was founded as a safe haven for the Mountain Jews, a distinct Jewish ethnic group that had lived in the Caucasus for over a thousand years. Unlike the Ashkenazi Jews of Eastern Europe or the Sephardic Jews of Spain, Mountain Jews are part of the Mizrahi Jewish tradition, with customs and a language—Juhuri (Judeo-Tat)—that closely resemble Persian.
Originally called “Jewish Village” (Yevreiskaya Sloboda), the name was changed during Soviet rule to “Red Village” (Krasnaya Sloboda). Some say this name referenced its red-roofed houses, while others believe it was a nod to Soviet influence. Despite the political changes over centuries, the Jewish character of the village remained remarkably intact.
Today, Qırmızı Qəsəbə is the last shtetl in the world—a rare relic of a vanished era.
What Makes Qırmızı Qəsəbə Unique?
Unlike the predominantly Muslim communities surrounding it, Qırmızı Qəsəbə remains overwhelmingly Jewish. The locals strictly observe the Sabbath, maintain kosher dietary laws, and continue traditional matchmaking practices. In fact, the village even has a “shadchan” (matchmaker), who also doubles as the postman—a job title that wouldn’t be out of place in Fiddler on the Roof!
The Juhuri language, still spoken by many villagers, is another key distinction. Much like how Ashkenazi Jews spoke Yiddish (a mix of medieval German and Hebrew), Mountain Jews developed Juhuri, which blends Persian with Hebrew influences. However, Russian has now become the village’s primary language due to Soviet influence, and many young people also speak Azerbaijani.
Religious life remains vibrant, thanks in part to funding from wealthy Jewish benefactors. The village boasts multiple synagogues, a yeshiva (Jewish seminary), a mikvah (ritual bathhouse), and even a Museum of Mountain Jews, which was inaugurated in 2020. The cemeteries, with centuries-old Hebrew inscriptions, stand as silent witnesses to the village’s enduring Jewish heritage.
But beyond religion and tradition, Qırmızı Qəsəbə stands out in another remarkable way—its unexpected wealth.
A Village of Billionaires
While shtetls in Eastern Europe were typically impoverished communities of merchants and artisans, Qırmızı Qəsəbə has produced an astonishing number of billionaires.
One of its most famous natives is God Nisanov, a real estate mogul and one of Russia’s richest men, with an estimated net worth of $3.1 billion. His business partner, Zarakh Iliev, also hails from the village and has a similar fortune. Another Krasnaya Sloboda-born billionaire, German Zakharyaev, made his wealth in trade and industry.
In fact, a local resident once joked:
“This village is probably just 1 kilometer long, but it might be the richest kilometer in the world.”
These billionaires have reinvested in their hometown, financing synagogue renovations, infrastructure improvements, and educational institutions. Lavish mansions have sprung up, and the village has hosted high-profile visitors, including Israeli politicians, Russian Orthodox leaders, and even Turkish pop stars.
Their influence extends far beyond Azerbaijan. Nisanov was a vice president of the World Jewish Congress, while Iliev and Zakharyaev hold leadership positions in Jewish organizations in Russia and Israel.
However, despite these impressive connections, Qırmızı Qəsəbə faces an uncertain future.
The Uncertain Future of the Last Shtetl
Like many small communities, Qırmızı Qəsəbə struggles with youth migration. Jobs are scarce, and many young people leave for Moscow, Baku, Israel, or New York, where larger Mountain Jewish communities now thrive. In Brooklyn, for example, Mountain Jews have established a significant presence, keeping their traditions alive while integrating into American society.
Although tourism has increased due to the village’s unique status, it’s not enough to sustain the local economy. As one resident wryly put it:
“The new museum and visitor center are great, but together, they only employ five people.”
If the village’s decline continues, Qırmızı Qəsəbə could one day join the countless shtetls that faded into history.
Conclusion: A Living Legacy of the Shtetl World
Qırmızı Qəsəbə is more than just a village—it’s a living time capsule of Jewish history. It preserves a way of life that once thrived across Eastern Europe, but has now almost entirely disappeared.
With its synagogues, matchmakers, Sabbath observance, and Juhuri-speaking elders, the village is a testament to Jewish resilience. Yet, with economic stagnation and migration threatening its future, its survival is uncertain.
Will Qırmızı Qəsəbə remain the last shtetl for generations to come, or will it eventually fade like its European predecessors? Only time will tell.
But for now, it stands as a rare and extraordinary reminder of a lost world—one that still echoes with the prayers, traditions, and spirit of the shtetl.
FAQs
🔹 Where is Qırmızı Qəsəbə located?
It’s in northern Azerbaijan, near the Russian border, across the Kudyal River from the town of Quba.
🔹 Who lives in Qırmızı Qəsəbə?
It is home to Mountain Jews, a Jewish ethnic group that has lived in the Caucasus for over a thousand years.
🔹 Why is it called the “last shtetl”?
Because it is the only remaining all-Jewish village in the world.
🔹 Why are there so many billionaires from Qırmızı Qəsəbə?
Many natives migrated to Russia, where they built successful real estate and business empires.
🔹 Is Qırmızı Qəsəbə open to visitors?
Yes, tourists can visit its synagogues, Jewish museum, and historic cemeteries.
