Introduction
Recording memories takes many forms—digital media, written accounts, photographs, and oral traditions. But for entire communities, their collective memories are often embodied in the places they once called home. Ghost towns, frozen in a state of slow decay, are reminders of lives once lived and stories left untold. Many of these abandoned settlements tell a singular story: war, famine, disasters, or economic decline forced their residents to leave. However, some ghost towns tell a rare dual narrative—one of abandonment, repopulation, and a second, final desertion.
One such town is Kayaköy, nestled in the hills of southwestern Turkey. Once known as Levissi, Kayaköy was abandoned not once, but twice. Its story is a complex tapestry of prosperity, persecution, forced exile, and eventual rediscovery as a historical landmark.
This blog delves deep into the haunting past of Kayaköy—a ghost town that echoes with the whispers of its former inhabitants and the lessons of history.
Kayaköy: A Town in the Heart of History
Located in the Muğla Province, Kayaköy sits in the Kaya Valley, surrounded by the stunning Taurus Mountains. The region is well known for its natural beauty, with popular tourist destinations like the Blue Lagoon of Ölüdeniz and the bustling port city of Fethiye, just 8 kilometers away.
Today, visitors to Kayaköy encounter the remnants of approximately 500 crumbling stone buildings scattered across the hillside. Most of these were once two-story homes, ingeniously designed with a water collection system to compensate for the lack of an aqueduct. Among the ruins stand abandoned shops, schools, cafés, chapels, and two grand churches.
With their roofs, windows, and doors long gone, these structures are left completely exposed to the elements. Meanwhile, nature has reclaimed much of the town—wild sage, thyme, radishes, pomegranates, and fig trees now grow unchecked, while daisies and poppies carpet the floors of once-thriving homes.
Yet, despite its eerie desolation, Kayaköy is far from forgotten. It now serves as an open-air museum, attracting visitors eager to walk its silent streets and uncover its rich yet tragic past.
Ancient Origins: The Birth of Levissi
The history of Kayaköy can be traced back thousands of years. Archaeological evidence suggests human habitation in the area as early as the third millennium BCE. Some scholars believe Kayaköy was built on or near the ruins of the ancient Lycian city of Karmylassos, part of the Lycian League, a powerful federation of city-states that flourished during the Classical period.
In 43 CE, Lycia became a Roman province, and under the Byzantine Empire, the town—then called Levissi—gained prominence. By 640 CE, historical records refer to Levissi as the seat of a bishopric, a testament to its importance. However, by the 10th century, the bishopric was transferred to Myra, and Levissi’s influence began to wane.
By the late 14th century, the region fell under Ottoman rule, which introduced the Millet System—a governance structure that allowed non-Muslim communities relative autonomy. Under this system, Levissi thrived as a predominantly Greek Orthodox town, coexisting peacefully with its small Turkish Muslim minority.
For centuries, Levissi and nearby Macri (modern-day Fethiye) flourished, with Greeks and Turks trading goods, attending each other’s celebrations, and living harmoniously. However, in the 19th century, natural disasters struck, changing the town’s fate.
Disasters and Revival: Levissi in the 19th Century
Between 1851 and 1885, Levissi and Macri suffered earthquakes and devastating fires, forcing many Greek inhabitants from Macri to seek refuge in Levissi. This migration brought economic prosperity to the town—new schools, libraries, and churches were built, and Greek culture flourished.
By the late 19th century, Levissi was a picturesque, prosperous town. Its brightly colored homes—painted in red, blue, green, and yellow—were carefully arranged to ensure that no family’s home blocked their neighbor’s sunlight. The population ranged from 7,000 to 20,000, with up to 93% of its residents being Greek Orthodox Christians.
Yet, despite its prosperity, dark clouds loomed on the horizon. The rise of Turkish nationalism and the outbreak of World War I would soon spell disaster for Levissi’s Greek population.
War and Persecution: The First Abandonment
With the decline of the Ottoman Empire in the early 20th century, tensions between Turkish nationalists and Greek minorities escalated. By 1914, Greek residents of Levissi faced systematic persecution, land confiscation, and forced conscription into brutal labor battalions.
Between 1916 and 1918, thousands of Greeks from Levissi and Macri were arrested, tortured, and deported to distant regions, many never returning. As World War I ended in 1918, Levissi was already a shadow of its former self.
But the worst was yet to come.
Following Greece’s invasion of Turkey in 1919, the Greco-Turkish War (1919-1922) led to mass atrocities on both sides. When Turkish forces recaptured southwestern Anatolia in September 1922, the remaining Greek population was forcibly evicted, leaving Levissi completely abandoned.
A Second Chance and a Second Abandonment
After the war, the newly formed Republic of Turkey and Greece agreed to a compulsory population exchange (1923)—over 1.2 million Greeks were expelled from Turkey, while 400,000 Turks were displaced from Greece.
Turkish Muslims from Kavala, Greece, were resettled in Levissi, now renamed Kayaköy (“Rock Village”). However, the newcomers found the land unsuitable for farming, and many left within a year. Thus, Kayaköy became a ghost town for the second and final time.
Kayaköy Today: A Living Monument to the Past
In the following decades, Kayaköy slowly crumbled. A major earthquake in 1957 further devastated the already fragile ruins. However, the town’s history was not forgotten.
By the 1980s, as Turkey’s tourism industry boomed, Kayaköy became a protected archaeological site and an increasingly popular destination. In 2015, the town even appeared in Russell Crowe’s film The Water Diviner, further cementing its place in popular culture.
Today, Kayaköy welcomes over 100,000 visitors annually. Walking through its abandoned streets is an unforgettable experience—a silent journey through time, marked by the ghosts of a past that still lingers in its walls.
FAQs About Kayaköy
1. Can you visit Kayaköy today?
Yes, Kayaköy is open to visitors for a small entrance fee (10 Turkish lira).
2. What are the main attractions?
The Upper Church (St. Nicholas Basilica), Lower Church, abandoned homes, chapels, and scenic views.
3. Is Kayaköy haunted?
No, but many locals speak of its eerie atmosphere and lingering sense of history.
4. How do you get to Kayaköy?
From Fethiye, you can reach Kayaköy via taxi, bus, or hiking trails.
Final Thoughts
Kayaköy is more than a ghost town—it is a monument to history, resilience, and the consequences of war and forced displacement. It stands as a powerful reminder of a world that once was, and a future that must strive for peace.
Would you walk through its silent streets? Let us know in the comments!
